Metal Clay Powder?

Imagine owning the philosophers stone? Rather yet a philosophers powder in which you add water then burn in fire, and finally emerge an object of solid silver.  You now have the power to transform mud into an object of fine silver beauty.  The main ingredient is pure silver metal, along with organic binder and water.  When the product is fully air-dried, and fired at the appropriate temperature and time, the finished product will have great strength, and will take a polish just as any other silver metal object.

The purpose of the MCP?

MCP allows for artists to use silver clay in a variety of different ways.  A versatile clay with almost indefinite shelf life, MCP is a value alternative enabling you to make limited production runs or create larger artistic sculpture while maximizing profit margin.

The advantage of silver clay in powder form.

MCP only needs water to bring it to life. Even hardened unused clay can be brought back to life with just a few drops of water.  If you have made a mistake such as your work-in-progress got cracked or broke, you can make a thin clay paste, and actually cement-together the pieces. Say you destroyed your work-in-progress, simply dissolve it in a few drops of water then you have clay once again.  MCP has almost unlimited shelf life. To prolong the effectiveness of the binder it should always be kept in its bag and away from dampness.  50 grams of MCP is equal to approximately 60 grams of a workable fine silver clay! Some other clays on the market may be selling you up to 20% water and binder in their package.

What warnings?

Metal Clay Powder is non-poisonous, but then again a lot of silver powder in your system isn't good; not for anyone. The binder component is made of a mixture of long chain cellulose that are from plant derived fibers.   Heating the clay will release volatile vapors that will sustain a flame in open air.  Artisans should wear dusts mask and glasses if carving with a sharp object,  high speed rotary tool or powered sander/grinder.  Improperly fired clay can pop and send chips flying.  MCP (moist) should not 'stay' in contact with other metal surfaces except silver or gold.  The clay powder does not contain mercury, lead ...only metal is Silver. 

A More Workable Clay?

When you're ready to work with MCPSILVER999 use Distilled water:  Not all bottled water is the same.  Look for distilled water at your grocery store.  Truly distilled or de-ionized water hydrates the binder best.  Rain water actually beats most store bought distilled waters!  Bottled drinking water for the most part is the same as tap water as it contain halides for preservation. Working in low humidity will reduce the drying time. Do not freeze the clay after it has been mixed.  Glycerin: Can add about 50% more flex to the dried clay. It also reduces the likelihood that it may stick to a mold as it is pressed in. In this update additional cellulose, glue and soap are not necessary to improve workability. White School Glue: when added to moistened clay will stiffen clay. In some applications an artist may want a hard clay but not one that is on the brink of drying out. Note: clay additives may increase firing shrinkage from a green form. Refrigerate: thin pieces with large surfaces may warp or bend some upon drying; usually due to uneven drying. Placing in the refrigerator may reduce warping especially useful if you use molds.

Roll it out: When removing MCPSILVER999 from its package it may feel solid and grainy. This is fine because when it is hydrated and properly kneaded it will turn out smooth and pliable. Small dark spots may be seen when you initially work your clay.  It is necessary to let your clay mature for 15 minutes or 10 minutes of constant kneading between fingers.  The dark spots are tiny gels that link together as the clay is worked, these gels will disappear.  When it has been worked well in hand place it between two sheets of plastic cling film (adhesive backing paper works very well) and roll with a rolling pin making it flat. Pick the flattened clay up and knead further and roll it flat again. You may have to do this four or five times or more. Minimizing Porous Surface: porous surfaces on clay means air is becoming trapped when rolling. Using plain paper with a thin light layer of oil soaked in will allow the trapped air to escape. Normally the clay should sit at least one minute before removing from the paper.

Syringe applicator: You can use a syringe as a clay/paste applicator.  Use a syringe of 5cc or better without a needle.  Pieces of left over clay are placed into the syringe and plunger re applied. Add in water to the level of clay, cap the syringe and set aside for a at least 2 days. This syringe applicator is useful for joining two or more pieces of clay before or after being fired. Filling a syringe for use as an applicator is best done with two syringes. First syringe is used to evenly hydrate the clay. With the nozzle removed (broken away), squeeze out the clay directly into the bottom of the next syringe, filling it slowly as to minimize trapping air. You then re-insert the plunger then push up slowly until the clay flows out the nozzle..

960 Alloy Clays. Starting about 2013, artisans discovered the benefits of sterling alloy clays' harder fire but with the ease of firing 999f.s. clay. As you may wondered clay artists have experimented with MCPSILVER999 mixing it with other silver clay and base metal clay products that are available.  Although we do not encourage MCPSILVER999 to be mixed with other clay products, we however won't condone your own endeavors nor will we promote a specific brand over another.  It should however be noted that base metal powered clays are a poor choice to make an alloy with MCPSILVER999.  Better success although have been achieved with a 50/50 mixture of a ready-use sterling clay than a 96/4 mixture of a ready-use copper or base metal clay. 

Make a Base Mold:

A base mold is a form at which you will use as a basis to make your clay object on... similar to how a dressmaker use a form to measure patterns on.  The lowest cost base mold is made from ordinary beach sand.  First you should choose the sand, and sieve through a strainer to get the smallest possible grain size.  Further grinding in a (non-purpose) coffee mill or with a mortar and pestle to make a finer sand. Wash this sand well in a pot, if possible boil the sand to wash and rinse away all salts, and debris. Now dry the sand by heating on stove or oven in a glass pot. Allow to cool then sieve this sand and place in a jar for storage.  To make the base mold, obtain methyl cellulose, tapioca, or modified grain starch and one heaping tablespoon should be enough for a coffee cup of sand. Add in small amounts of water until you can shape the sand easily into the shape you desire. Allow this to dry then form your metal clay around or on this sand mold and allow to dry on the mold.  If your metal clay object can easily be removed from the mold then take it off prior to placing in kiln; if not then place the clay object including base mold and fire at the required temperature for the metal clay.  Once cooled, the sand mold will fall to free flowing sand again at which can be discarded.  This is especially useful method when making hollow forms and larger 3D objects. There are fancy other products available including hollow glass spheres and carbon-based solids like wood dust which shrinks too, all work well, but nothing beats sand price-wise.

Give Your Clay Surface A Black Patina:

To give the surface more contrast, a patina can be assed to the surface of MCPSILVER999.  To do  so you will need sodium sulfide (aka liver of sulfur) and hydrogen peroxide.  Sodium sulfide can be made by dissolving sodium hydroxide in distilled water and adding in a small amount of sulfur to it making it dissolve.  The sodium sulfide will need to be dissolved in water. Using two small dishes; one for the sodium sulfide liquid and the other for hydrogen peroxide. ~wear gloves and eye protection when handling these chemicals~ The fired silver item is dipped into hydrogen peroxide for a minute or so to clean and prep the surface - rinse off in water or dry on a clean napkin - dip in the sulfide liquid for 10 seconds then pull out and dip into the peroxide for 10 seconds - rinse off in water or dry with a napkin and repeat the sulfide / peroxide dips.  When at the desired darkness (usually 3-5 repeats) clean with soap and water.  Polish the relief areas with an abrasive polish by hand, then optional; tumble in stainless shot mill and clean in ultrasonic bath. Finally the piece can be lightly oiled and flame torched to season in.